Arriving in Bangalore, I was captivated by the traffic. A road with two lanes each way fills up with four or five rows of traffic in each direction, very close to each other, weaving in and out. The traffic moves and flows, impervious to rules. Everyone jumps on: pedestrians, bicyclists, motorbikes (mostly Japanese rice rockets), scooters, motorized rickshaws with bright yellow tops ("tuk-tuks", a type of three-wheel taxi all over SE Asia), small cars , trucks, tractors, and of course cows. Get a pack of tuk-tuks and a few scooters side by side, and the road momentarily handles 6 or 7 lanes, than flows on to 3 or 4. Left turn into traffic? Just nose out and push through. Traffic accommodates and flows around. People even nose into traffic and go the other way! They seem to be cheered on by the oncoming hordes, treated as momentary folk heroes for their panache. There is no road rage, just a lot of honking. (First night I was here, I noticed the cacophony of honks but couldn't quite make out where it was from, and asked whether someone had started a party nearby; no, just rush hour.) The music of Bangalore.